Best Way To Register Your Artwork

The answer to this problem is a screen printing registration template. Our pre-registration templates are printed on backlight film making it very simple to register your screen printing jobs. This template will save you time and make it easy for lining up spot colors and four color process jobs. The templates overall size is 26″x36″ for 20″x24″ and 23″x31″ screen printing frames. The template comes with center line registration and left and right pocket registration — a must for any screen printing business. Here are detailed instructions and a YouTube video to help learn how to use the template.

Step by step screen printing registration Instructions:

1. Make sure your film positive has center registration marks.
2. Line up the center registration marks on your artwork to the center lines on the pre-registration template.

Line Up Center Registration marks

3. Tape your artwork down to the pre-registration template right side up.
4. Pull out the appropriate size screen for your job and place it in the according outline for your size screen on the pre-registration templete.

Adding Registration Marks

5. Using a soft tip black marker make a mark on your screen where each registration mark is on the artwork
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you have marked all screens needed for that job.
7. When finished marking the screens needed. Tape each film positive to your screen using the center registration marks and the marks that you applied to each screen.

Burn Your Screen

8. Burn your screen!

 

Top 10 Reasons to Ppurchase a Stahls’ Hotronix Heat Press

Why Hotronix?

Top 10 reasons to purchase a Stahls’ Hotronix heat press.

1. It’s What We Do

Stahls’ Hotronix is part of a family of companies which invented heat printing. Since 1932, Stahls’ has been providing the entire heat printing system. From transfers, to pre-cuts, to stock art, heat transfer vinyl and equipment—we manufacture and support everything you need for your imprinting business.

2. Cutting Edge Research and Development

We listen to our customers and continually develop the industry’s most innovative features, centered around accuracy, ease of use, and overall operator ergonomics.

3. World-Class Manufacturing

CNC turning centers, laser cutting, robotic welding, and automated powder coat lines ensure quality and consistency in every heat press assembled.

4. Blue Ribbon Support

As an original purchaser of a Hotronix® heat press you are awarded free technical support as long as you own your equipment. With over 100 years of technical knowledge and experience, our techs are at your service 24/7/365!

5. Made With Pride in the USA

We employ a well-balanced staff of assembly technicians, certified welders & machinists, mechanical engineers, and customer service specialists, all of whom take pride in manufacturing each unit in Carmichaels, PA. The majority of our employees have 20-plus years of service.

6. Worldwide Distribution

We warehouse final products, ready for shipment worldwide. With over one million dollars in equipment inventory, we drop ship our dealer and customer orders same day for no extra fee.

7. The Right Tool for the Job

Our full product line offers solutions for any and all heat printing applications. From swingers and clamshell styles to draw presses and caps, we have a well-balanced selection across a price range that will suit anyone from hobbyists to commercial factories.

8. Certifications

Our equipment comes with UL, ULC, and CE certifications, giving our product the stamp of approval from these independent agencies and ensuring our heat presses are compliant with worldwide safety standards.

9. Custom Capabilities

We will work with you to come up with a design to create a custom platen to accomplish any job. Heat print umbrellas, shoes, any size garment, can koozies, golf club covers, corporate bags, and much more. With such a wide range of possibilities, you can say “yes” to any job!

10. Join The Family

How To Use a Manual T-Shirt Press

Manual T-Shirt PressIf you’ve ever been to a screen printing supply shop or a print shop then you have most likely seen a screen printing press. Most of these presses spin like a carousel and have rotating screen for different print stations. The technical term for these presses is a Manual Rotary Screen Printing Press. The MRSPP was created to help you efficiently print multiple colors per design. The rotating, carousel design can go either clock wise or counter clock wise depending on your dominant side of the body (right handed or left handed). Most right handed printers will push the stations to the left. The examples given below will be based on this left, clock wise motion for a 4 color, 4 station print.

You will need to set up 4 different stations: a print station, a flash cure station, and 2 stations for the cool down. This type of layout will allow you to constantly be printing and layering on your colors/prints. The print station is where the screen printer will want to be standing and where the press will be operated from. This will be where you start and finish your job.

In the first station you will load your garment onto the platen and do your first screen print layer. Be sure to use a test pellon, to ensure that you have the ideal set up before using your purchased garment. When you push this platen to the left it will then come to the flash cure station. While your layer of ink is drying you will be able to begin the process again at your “home”, first station where you will load another garment and make your first screen print layer.

The flash curing process usually takes about as long as it takes you to load and print your first layer on the next garment and usually the additional time it takes to remove a finished shirt off of the platen and onto a belt dryer.

Once the garment has been cured you will move the platens to the left again which will set you up for another printing station (1st Cool Down Station). Allowing the garment time to cool down while you are busy doing your work at your “home” station.

When you move the machine to the left again the garment will be in the 2nd Cool Down Station, ensuring that the shirt is now allowed enough time to fully cool down before it is moved and printed on again. Sticking, and overly cured ink is usually avoided since the pallets will not be too hot.

This process continues to go around and around, while the screen printer stays put and just performs his job at his home station. Taking the time to unload shirts properly, reload shirts and to press the first layer of the design. This same technique is applied to the multiple head manual rotary system.

The print stations can rotate for not only multiple color prints, but for opacity on double prints, and a white underbase print for a 2 color job. It is best if you rotate the print stations the opposite way, so counter clockwise seems to work best for a right handed person who is swinging the pallets to the left.

Once you get into your grove and have practiced this system it runs smoothly and is very efficient. Like anything though it takes a few jobs to get into the rotation of things.

Odyssey 4 color 1 station thumb

WORKHORSE ODYSSEY BENCHTOP PRESS would be the manual press best suited for the example listed above. It is also one of our top selling products! Come into one of our 4 locations to try out this press in person!

Squeegee Purchasing Guide

ALUMINUM SQUEEGESNot all screen printers know the importance of printing with the perfect squeegee. A good quality squeegee will help make your screen printing job a breeze. Understanding the durometer, the shape and the size/length is crucial for making your jobs efficient and easy.

The first main thing to consider is the durometer, which is the density of the squeegee blade. The durometer ranges from 60-95, with the 60 being much softer than the harder 95 durometer. When you purchase a softer durometer like the 60, it will allow more ink to be printed. Whereas the 95 durometer will allow for less ink to be printed, but this type of squeegee usually lasts longer and holds up well with the many printing chemicals that one uses on a basic job. You also need to take into consideration the ink being used. Thicker inks like plastisol require a lower durometer, but if you are working with waterbased inks then a higher durometer would be the best option.

Secondly, the shape which is usually a rectangular, cut-edged squeegee is what will work for most level screen printing jobs. If you are printing on bottles or cylinders then a V shaped squeegee is the one to buy. The V shaped squeegees tend to deposit more ink in the center of your design leaving the edges not as clear. The triple durometer squeegee has a little more flex with a softer blade in the center and two firmer blades on the outside and these are used on automatic screen printing machines.

Lastly, the size and the length of the squeegee can make for friction free printing. The bigger the squeegee the higher the friction between the squeegee and the screen mesh, which leads to mesh problems and stencil drag. The squeegee blades are made of Urethane and need to be cleaned/rested properly to avoid issues with swelling. We suggest having a different squeegee to use per day, so that your squeegee are on rotation per week, allowing enough rest time in between jobs. All of these simple steps and tips will help you get into your own printing routine and will help to yield higher quality prints so that you are working in a smarter, more cost effective way.

Here are the most popular squeegees offered at Mclogan’s ranging from 60-80 durometers.

How To Print a White Under Base on Darker Garments

Anytime there is an article to be typed about screen printing then mesh counts, ink types and garment color/fabrics are always in consideration. Most people prefer to print a white under base layer on black or darker fabrics so that their design can really pop and not get lost in the darker fabric. That being said, white under base screens are usually on 110 mesh count, but if you are printing fine detail prints (halftones) then you will use a higher mesh count for a smoother white ink layer.

The white under base is just a white outlined form of your color print. The white under base will fill in the fabric fibers and create a nice clean bright layer for your actual design print. Some plastisol inks are high opacity and can be used instead of a white under base by printing, then flashing, then printing it again. To save you time some people choose to use a lower mesh count, which will lay more ink down with the first initial print. A 110 mesh should allow you to just print and flash, but for a smoother finish then a 160 mesh with the print-flash-print method would be recommended.

If your design is 3 different colors you will end up burning 4 screens, because you will do a background image screen that is your under base white. Then you can separate your colors and burn the screens accordingly. You want your first under base screen image to be slightly smaller to allow for ink shrinkage or shirt shrinkage. (Slightly smaller being 1/16th of an inch).

As always do a test print on a dark pellon to ensure that you get the right print/design look.

International Coatings 7031 Ultra White is one of the most popular white plastisol inks for screen printing your background.

Screen Printing Foil Adhesive Melt

Gecko Flex Specialty Melt is a special formulated cad-cut adhesive used with screen printing foils to give your garment a shiny foil look. The great thing about it is there is no mess and you can give your client a screen printing foil look with no minimum.

The roll width for Gecko Flex Specialty Melt is nineteen inches (19″)

 

8 tips and tricks for heat pressing

 THE MAXX™ HEAT PRESS BY STAHLS'

  1. Always read and follow the application instructions for each material.
  2. To ensure quality application, pre-heat your garment to remove moisture and wrinkles.
  3. After Heat pressing your garment peel your carrier sheet off at a 45* angle in a fluid motion.
  4. Always use a teflon cover sheet when using your heat press.
  5. To easily slide garments on and off of a press, wrap a bottom teflon slip cover on the bottom platen to make heat applying faster and easier.
  6. Use heat transfer tape to align your shirts up in advance rather than doing it on the heat press.
  7. For Heat pressing on around zippers, buttons, and pockets use a heat transfer pillow. This will allow the press to transfer the image without making contact with the zipper or buttons.
  8. Never plug your heat press into a surge protector. Surge protectors are not made to support the needed power to properly heat your press. If a surge protector is used it can cause your heat press to actually overheat and cause internal problems with the press.